During the early 1970s mr-zeeman was trained in the folkish skills of spinning and weaving. An essential part of the course consisted of being taught how to dye our own sheep … along with any other sort of earthy, naturally-formed fibres that might be turned into a rustic garment, furnishing fabric, handbag, or (if the item defied all other known definitions) *art-form*. The dying procedure wasn't for the feint-hearted though, as it involved boiling carcinogens in heavy cauldrons for hours on end, in an enclosed, fetid atmosphere. And being splashed with the permanent dyes resulted in long-term (but colourful) disfigurement of the unlucky participants, until the surface layer of their skin was shed (by the normal sloughing process that we all experience daily, often without even noticing).
The UK was almost entirely swathed in a blanket of tie-dyed cloth during this psychedelic era, and dyers had found ways and means of creating some spectacular results. Anyone bold (or stupid) enough to try dying at home could purchase small metal tubs of powdered Dylon colourant from Woolworths. An ad hoc dye vat was then made by dissolving the powder in a pan of heavily salted water, and simmering an immersed item of clothing or piece of cloth on the stove for an hour or two, whilst constantly agitating with a spoon. The process was messy and the results unpredictable. The restricted amount of space in the vessel meant that whatever was in it couldn't be moved around adequately in order to achieve a nice evenly-coloured finish. On the other hand, if an uneven, patchy finish was the ultimate goal … then
this was an OK method.
Another major drawback to these amateurish attempts was that the size of the pan, rather than human desire, dictated what could and couldn't be dyed. A dull vest could be turned into a rainbow-hued fashion statement quite successfully; but trying to brighten a faded old duvet cover was entirely out-of-the-question. The problem was …way back then, we ordinary bods didn't actually own our own automatic washing machines. Just like the current cast of Eastenders, we relied upon the local launderette for our washing needs. Public dying was a very big social faux-pas, and hand-written notices described the horrific punishments that would be meted out to anyone brass-necked enough to misuse the machines in this way. So while some really hard-core aggressive dyers, intent on getting the best effects possible, unlawfully coloured their garments in the coin-operated machines, everyone else obligingly stuck to the pan/hob method of production.
These days however, almost everyone beyond the boundaries of Albert Square owns their own washing machine … and a burgeoning interest in recycling, converting and renovating goods, blossoms in the collective 21st century British bosom. So if you've been dying to dye, or if you think you might like to dye in the near future … then Dylon Machine Dye is THE must-have product for you.
Retailing for a mere £3.99 in Wilkinsons (but dearer everywhere else), a box containing 200g of the dye powder is enough to permanently colour 500g (dry weight) of fabric … which roughly translates as either: 1 pair of jeans; 2 shirts; a skirt or dress; or a bath towel. In fact one pack can dye up to 1250g of cloth, but a lighter shade than that indicated on the packet can be expected, so for *red* think *pink*, for example. Actually I've used one box of Dye No. 35, which is "terracotta", on four peach-coloured cotton bathroom mats, weighing 2kg, to achieve an attractive "burnt orange" effect … but generally speaking, if you're considering the prospect of dying something large (like a tent, perhaps?) then you'll need one box of dye for every 500g that it weighs.
Fabrics that make ideal candidates for successful dying are cotton, linen, and viscose. Polyester/cotton mixes will dye, but to a lighter shade than neat cotton. This particular type of dye is not suitable for wool or silk because of the high temperature used which will damage their structure. And for the same reason, the product isn't suitable for fabrics with special finishes either (ie: those that should be dry-cleaned only). Pure synthetics, such as nylon and acrylic, are entirely resistant and are therefore out of the equation altogether.
Dylon Machine Dye is a chemical irritant and obviously should be handled and stored with a modicum of common sense. However using it couldn't be easier ~
1) Wash the hideously-faded item that you intend to dye, and leave it damp. 2) Dump the entire contents of the box into the empty machine drum and follow this up with 500g (ie: 1lb) of salt to *fix* the dye. 3) Add the wet item and select a 60*C colourfast-cotton cycle, without a pre-wash. 4) When this cycle has finished add your usual soap-powder and fabric conditioner and run on the hottest programme recommended for the material. 5) Remove the fabulous-looking revitalised item from the machine and dry it out of direct heat or sunlight. 6) Adopt the smug expression of a creative genius.
Hmmmm … the instruction leaflet which is included with the dye insists that the dyer "wears rubber gloves" … although I'm not sure why, as at no point should you actually be handling the dye (unless something goes horribly wrong).
And although mr-zeeman personally has never found this to be necessary after dying, those of a nervous disposition might like to add a cup of household bleach to their machine, and run it through a 40*C cotton cycle just to make sure that no colour residue remains in the drum to spoil the next load of washing.
So, not only can life be put back into faded articles, but if you're hankering for a complete home make-over, towels, bed-linen, and curtains etc can be dyed a totally different colour for a fraction of the cost of buying new stuff. And if you spot a nice, but hideously-coloured garment at a heavily discounted price in The Sales you can render it wearable with the help of Dylon.
There are a few of important points to consider ~
i) The colour of the powder is no indication of what the final outcome will be. For instance, I recently used Dye No.11 which produces a good dark brown … despite the fact that the powder itself is maroon. ii) The final colour of your article will depend upon its original hue. For example, if you use a blue dye on a red fabric the end result will be purple. iii) If your item is dark in colour, and you want to dye it to a lighter shade, you will need to first remove the original dye … preferably not with bleach: there are gentler products on the market, specifically designed for the job. iv) Unfortunately some items made from natural fibres are sewn together with dye-resistant polyester thread … so when dyed, the stitching will end up being a different colour to the rest of the cloth. This can be a bit of a nuisance. v) You can't obliterate the design on patterned material, it will just become a different colour.
Dylon Machine Dye is a splendid phosphate-free British product, which has been approved by the Good Housekeeping Institute, and is highly recommended by a Good Housewife in an Institution, ie: mr-zeeman. The colours are permanent and won't streak or wash out during subsequent laundering ... or cause acute embarrassment during rainy weather. The dye is available in over two dozen different shades ... and obviously the ingredients vary according to which shade is used.
For more info contact:
Dylon International Ltd Worsley Bridge Road Lower Sydenham London SE26 5HD
Tel: 02086634801 www.dylon.co.uk
mr-zeeman hopes that you will find dying to be a most rewarding experience. (Eh?)
Pictures of Dylon machine dye
All my own work
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