Would that all things Scottish were so grand...

5 Oct 22nd, 2003

Advantages:
Smooth, grand, stately and elegant

Disadvantages:
Very pricey .  Very .

Recommendable: Yes 

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frkurt

About me: CIAO -- Cheating Is Apparently Okay. Sorry - not participating on Ciao until the cheating is dealt ...

Member since:26.12.2002

Reviews:543

Members who trust:244

Review rated by 55 Ciao members on average: very helpful

I originally wrote the basis of this article as part of a series, together with a gallant band who united to knock back a peg or two of Scotch, to determine which was the best Gaelic water of life. Below is my contribution to that effort.

* * * *

William Waugh once wrote of the prowess of Professor R.J.S. McDowall's discerning palate with regard to Scotch whiskys.

This is well illustrated by a quotation from a paper by Sir James Howie, an eminent microbiologist: 'In 1967 I met a 1952 Macallan, just ready for drinking. It was marvellous. In 1970 I met a Macallan I did not like--nor did my wife. I reported to Professor McDowall. 'Not possible,' he said, 'unless you both have colds, or unless it's 1954.' It was 1954.

This was reported not as an urban legend, but rather from the pages of the British Medical Journal (24-31 December 1983).

Macallan is a legendary scotch, part of the upper trinity of Highland singlemalts. For just the briefest history: one thing you may note is that of things that come from Scotland, all things are Scottish, save for the whisky, which is Scotch. So definitive a type of whisky is this that it is differentiated simply by the adjective Scotch, the word whisky being understood, and thus superfluous (makes for faster ordering, you see). There are three varieties--malt, grain, and blended whisky. Nearly all the malt whisky production is used for blending, but there are roughly 100 bottled single-malts available (this number varies, due to the aging process, by which there are single-malts available from distilleries which are now long since closed). Malt whisky is made from the fermented watery extract of barley malt and yeast.

Also, point of interest--most whisky produced outside of Scotland is spelled whiskey; the definition of this is legal and technical, but it makes reading the label imperative; much in the way that second-rate domestic wines try to hide the fact by using a fancy French name and label design, some whiskey will likewise do the same label trickery--however, due to legalities, there will be tell-tale signs. (Of course, the case of Johnnie Halker comes to mind.)

To the specific Scotch of this review, Macallan, this is one of the best (not a few consider it to be the best; many distillery owners call it 'the second best'--just after their own, of course). The distillery originated on a farm in the ancient Macallan parish (there is a churchyard in the distillery property). The fame spread by cattle drivers heading for Inverness and shippers heading out of the Spey Bay back to Aberdeen.

This has a very smooth texture. It is sold in various ages (10 years to 30 years) of differing proofs (the truly brave and adventurous might, after surrendering the keys to the auto, venture to the 120 proof, which has a little too much alcohol for the flavouring to remain consistent, in my opinion); the sample under review is a upper-range 25 year (1974, actually--the number of years refers to aging in the cask, not the bottle). It is quite delicious and shows no sign of disintegration; indeed, while the aging is always done in sherry casks (the additional aging in the bottle not being generally of note, save in deterioration), this will probably continue to hold for at least several decades before beginning a very slow decline (should it last that long!).

The aroma is one of cherry, woody scents, and perhaps a bit of caramel-like aspects which also show up on taste. Not unusual for Scotch, there is a reminiscence of sherry in the taste, but only for the briefest second. There is such a smooth, glassy feel that one barely remembers that it was $240 for the bottle. Younger Macallans still go for a premium cost, but are not in the three-figure range. Your nearest British/Irish-inspired pub ought to have some available by the glass.

Best served neat (no ice, no additives), this is one to be savoured, not swigged. If I still smoked a pipe, this would be the occasion to puff gently. I did put Mozart on and drifted into higher-IQ sublimity with the Macallan leading the way, and Le Nozze bringing up the rear.

Malts, like wine vintages, can vary from year to year, with less explanation in Scotch whisky's case than in wines (where the variability of the grapes can lead one to discern the character and quality of the wine).

Macallan (part of Macallan-Glenlivet PLC formed in 1946) did make a special Royal Wedding blended whisky by combining malts distilled during 1948 and 1961, the years the Prince of Wales and Diana Spencer were born, vatting them together, and was proclaimed 'a nice touch'.

Macallan of any vintage is always welcome in my house. However, the Macallan 25, with each bottle individually crated in a wooden box with leather straps, is particularly welcome.

Price ($US, 750 ml or standard size): $240 -- yes, that price is accurate! The bottles I've had have always been gifts, from very good friends indeed. 

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Comments about this review
OKkaraoke

OKkaraoke

07.11.2003 15:44

Interesting! I've always wondered about the 'e' or lack thereof in whisk(e)y.

KarenUK

KarenUK

28.10.2003 02:40

You have some wonderfully generous friends!

the_mad_cabbie

the_mad_cabbie

27.10.2003 12:59

I don't drink whisky anymore, but if I did, this would be one of my first choices...Ken :O)

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