Sainsbury's Normandy Butter

Part of the “Taste the Difference” range this butter costs £1.09 for 250g, which is in the luxury range for butters. It comes in a classy, well designed foil package, which gives the impression of quality in an understated way. It is produced and packed in France by the large and well regarded Isigny St. Mere Co-operative, and has an Appelation Controle, Beurre d’Isigny mark I wasn’t aware that there was such a thing, but I am aware of how seriously the French take such marks of quality.

Here is a somewhat lyrical French description:

“Located between the sea water of the English Channel and the fresh water of the Bessin and Cotentin marshes, the Isigny terroir enjoys a damp and mild climate, as well as a soil rich in clay and silt. The bocage has lush and varied vegetation: the grass is particularly abundant and enriched by the alluvial deposits. The cows which grazed there fed on grass rich in iodine, beta carotene and trace elements. The quality of Isigny butter reflects all these natural advantages: it is impossible to confuse it with any other butter. It is yellow like buttercups, it has a faint taste of hazelnuts and it is rich in vitamin A

The milk from these pastures gains from such generosity on the part of Mother Nature: it is rich in trace elements and has high butterfat levels, which gives all the Isigny Sainte-Mère products their distinctive flavour, starting with the butter and crème fraîche. All these qualities were noted in the Appellation d'Origine Controle specification, which has been in force since 1986.”

The package says it is “Creamy with a hint of nuttiness, this traditionally made pure unsalted butter is produced from the fresh milk of cows that graze in the lush pastures of Normandy.”

My test of a butter is to try it alone on a good bread and see how it shapes up. So I put it on some fresh baguette, and it was great. This is about as good as butter gets; rich and creamy, it has as much taste as many cheeses. Everything a good butter should be, and better than any other Norman butter available in Britain that I am aware of. It is excellent alone on bread, oatcakes and crispbreads. The taste reminds me of the best croissants.

There’s loads of fat in it -82g per 100g – but then, it is butter! The danger with this is that it is so good that it would be easy to overdo it, and for that reason I would not buy it that often. It would be just too tempting if one used it as an every day butter, or at least it would be for me.

It would be excellent for cakes, sweets and pastries, especially since it is unsalted. It would be just as good in savoury cooking, but I feel that would be a waste.

For a bit of sheer self indulgence, breakfast on croissants with some fine jam or honey, and some of this butter; with some good coffee. Strictly for birthdays, anniversaries and Christmas – or as part of a seduction regime!